The classification of fragrances into olfactory groups is one of the fundamental divisions used in perfumery. Whether consciously or unconsciously, anyone choosing a perfume encounters these groups. It’s helpful to distinguish between the basic olfactory groups when selecting a scent, as they define which ingredients we seek and which we prefer to avoid. This principle works the other way around as well – when a customer specifies the ingredients they’re looking for, it helps a consultant narrow down the selection of olfactory groups that match the customer’s preferences. In this article, you’ll learn about Montserrat’s classification of fragrances by olfactory groups, which will make it easier to find the right perfume tailored to your tastes. Almost every conversation about perfumes involves olfactory families. Every perfume enthusiast has probably used terms like oriental, floral, fruity, or woody at least once. These are just a few of the categories, but what are the others, and what defines them? You can read about the full classification of fragrances below.
Floral Perfumes
This is the broadest and most popular category, featuring predominantly feminine and sensual scents. A floral fragrance can either focus on a single flower, like tuberose, violet, or mimosa, or blend aromas from various flowers.
Citrus Perfumes
Citrus accords dominate in this category. You might also encounter the term “hesperides,” which refers to citrus notes as well as other ingredients that may smell like citrus but aren’t actually citrus (such as petitgrain and verbena). The citrus accord is frequently used in other fragrance groups as well.
Chypre Perfumes
Inspired by Mediterranean nature, the dry and very natural Chypre by Coty became the template for fragrances based on oakmoss, with bergamot or another citrus at the opening, and jasmine and rose in the heart. A true chypre composition often includes labdanum absolute and an animalic accord, though these ingredients are often left out in modern chypre perfumes.
Woody Perfumes
As the name suggests, the main accord here is created by woody notes, including shrubs, mosses, and lichens, as well as patchouli and vetiver, and the increasingly popular agarwood (oud). Woody aromas are more frequently found in men’s fragrances.
Oriental ( ambery ) Perfumes
These are composed of intense notes and, as the name suggests, are inspired by the rich, warm, and enveloping scents of the Orient. These fragrances are filled with spices, resins, incense, vanilla, and spicy aromas. Oriental compositions are usually recommended for evening wear or special occasions.
Aromatic Fougère Perfumes
Aromatic Fougère is a harmonious blend of two fragrance categories—Aromatic and Fougère – resulting in a natural, earthy, and slightly spicy composition. This category, named after the French word “fougère,” meaning fern, is known for its natural atmosphere and is traditionally popular in men’s fragrances. The characteristic scent of Aromatic Fougère comes from a combination of herbal, green, and woody notes. Lavender, oakmoss, tonka bean (or coumarin), and tobacco are key components of the classic fougère accord. To enhance the fresh, natural vibe, aromatic elements such as green leaves, plant resins, and coniferous berries are added, along with the distinct dry and bitter aroma of galbanum. This fusion of herbal and green accords creates a fragrance that is both fresh and grounding, evoking the essence of nature while maintaining a sophisticated and masculine appeal.
Leather Perfumes
This is a rarer category, often grouped with others, like aldehydic scents. The leather aroma doesn’t exist on its own in perfumes but is created through a blend of animalic notes, spices, incense, castor oil, labdanum, other resins, and fruits, depending on how intense the leather note needs to be.